On Christmas eve we were having dinner in a vegetarian restaurant, when outside we heard the sounds of a small brass band coming down the street. The diners rushed out to see a few men playing a tuba, trombone, drums, trumpet followed by some people carrying candles on little posts followed by a flat bed truck carrying children in a manger scene. The manger scene had a tiny Mary, a tiny Joseph with painted on beard (he looked as if he was about 5 years old) and 6 tiny angels with little furry wings. At the front of the procession was someone carrying a large cellophane star with the name of the parish from which this group came. We finished our dinner and then walked on down to the Zocalo. There other processions were converging. Each parish had a different group of performers - some women wearing colorful costumes carrying tall baskets on their heads and twirling around, others with huge puppets, some with a "sparkler runner" - a young boy with twirling sparklers on a long pole running in front. People were selling sparklers and eggs filled with confetti. The processions went around the Zocalo from about 8 to 10 pm and children were delighted to hold sparklers. Others bought 15 foot balloons which were held by tiny children and thrown up in the air and caught again. It was a perfect Christmas eve when we celebrate the new child with great joy and fanfare.
Later we lay in bed listening to church bells peal continuously along with explosions. On Christmas Day we went to a Posada (Inn) near Iglesia Santa Domingo and made reservations for when we return to Oaxaca and also while Danielle joins me here. Later on Christmas, I met an American living in Oaxaca who invited us to his home in the hills where his wife had prepared a wonderful buffet, and there was an interesting group of ex-pats all of whom seemed to be happy to be living in Oaxaca.
That evening we got on the bus for an overnight trip to San Cristobal. There we found the Hotel Central - a labyrinthine building with 2 patios and rooms in 3 tiers around each. It is so quiet here compared to Oaxaca. We sleep very well in a tiny room. The weather is very different - actually cold at night and in the morning and warming up to about 70 in the days. There are many more indigenous people here - many of the women wear black furry skirts - I don't think it is actually fur. Their blouses are satin with beautiful embroidery and over that is a colorful shawl - often holding a baby. They sell woven items.
We went to the Institute Jovel and arranged for Spanish classes. This our third day of classes. John and I have individual instructors, 2 each day. One session is from noon to 1:30 and the other from 5:30 to 7:00. At 7:00, a person who wants to practice English arrives for each of us and we practice conversation. I have talked with 2 sisters, Ileana and Araceli. Both are University students, one studying linguistics and the other engineering. The instructors are very good and we are learning alot. I have homework from each of them. San Cristobal is a great place.
We just got back from the public market which I would like to describe, but now its time to have dinner, do homework before the evening classes.
Best to you.