Greetings from Srinigar, in Northern India. Yesterday I composed a long, descriptive email, but I think they have 28.8 modems here and when I pressed "send" - it hung up. So I may be repeating myself if that did reach you.

I heard from Danielle about the disasters in the U.S. What a surreal situation! We are staying in a houseboat on Lake Dal surrounded by high mountains. Last night I asked if there was a TV I could watch, and walked on a rickety plank above lily pads to a room with men and a few women sitting on pads on the floor watching English Language news from India.

Srinigar is mostly Moslem, and India is mostly Hindu. I think most people here identify with Moslem countries so it was quite an experience to watch TV with Moslems hearing about this attack. It is even more interesting to discuss it with them.

Srinigar is in Kashmir which was separate from India and Pakistan until the partition of the British Empire here. It was given to India by Britian. Since that time India and Pakistan have fought for it. The Kashmiri people have a strong identity and distinctive appearance. There are virtually no westerners here and all women wear a Kashmiri costume which is a long graceful shift of colorful fabric, loose matching leggings, and a filmy veil and scarf. They are composed and serene whether sitting sidesaddle on
a motorcycle behind a man, doing laundry, crouching in a boat. This used to be a popular tourist destination, but for the last 12 years, the Indian army has occupied Kashmir - and there has been violence - it seems to be mainly be the army against the locals, but also against suspected terrorists. So the reaction of the Kashmiris I spoke with is that now the most powerful country's people are suffering as we have. They blame it on politics and say it's the people who suffer.

We have cruised villages and the lake on a Shikara which is a canopied dugout. We purchased carpets at the Oriental Carpet factory where John had bought carpets in the 70's and they were happy to have customers. As we left, one brother said "pray for peace, God listens to your prayers more that he listens to ours" and said next time we come, we should stay in their house.

At no time have I felt in danger - I feel very safe here. There is a lot to say, but this computer is incredibly slow and yesterday I wasted time typing and then losing it. 20 rupees per hour (about 50 cents).

Tomorrow we leave on a bus for Leh. I'll watch the 8:00 news again tonight with Abdul and Mohammed.